Last night I was out at Montara. It was lumpy, junky and onshore. I was out alone. I was surfing in front of the south parking lot. I was trying to catch a left that was breaking right along the rocks. The sun was going down. The visability wasn't that good. I was paddling cross shore against the rip. Out of the corner of my eye, I thought I saw a fin to the outside.

I thought.....I was seeing things cause the day before I saw a seal totally jump out of the water. You always wonder, if a seal jumps completely out of the water what the fuck is down there making it jump.

Five minutes later I was paddling back out. Out of the corner of my eye I thought I saw a fin to the north, up the beach from me. Things didn't feel right. I stayed in the water anyway.

Five minutes after that, the rip had sucked me 20 yards beyond the point. I was paddling against the rip to get into position for the next set. I was atleast 60 yards offshore. When I was in position, I sat up on my board to judge the on-coming set. The third wave of the set was the biggest so I had my eye on it. I was setting up for it but there were still two waves between me and the biggest set wave.

I watched the third wave roll towards me. Then I noticed this head in the middle of the wave. It was surfacing like a giant submarine. At first glance I thought it was a seal. But as it came out of the water there was lots off teeth.I mean lots of teeth. I was temporarily stunned. I thought "Oh my fuck'en god" "There's teeth, a mouth and it's zero-ing in on me."

By this time the first wave of the set had passed me bye. I paddled as fast as I could to catch the second wave. I put my legs together on my board; so no part of of me was hanging off. I almost caught the second wave but I missed it. I braced myself to get munched. Do you know what it is like to know your about to get eatten?

Frantically I paddled toward the rocks. I was thinking rocks...shark...rocks...shark I chose the rocks. While next to rocks I caught the third wave. I rode it inon my stomach. So freaked out, I didn't step off my board but allowed myself to be pitched on the sand.

The only question.....why did I not get eatten?